A Fortress, Vineyard, and Rose Garden: Schaffhausen's Munot for Locals and Vistors Alike

Schaffhausen, Switzerland

"Do you know the Munot?" asks a woman, in German (so proud of myself for understanding her), who has brought her granddaughter to the neighborhood park.

"Yes, last week," I reply because I'm still not familiar enough with forming the past tense of verbs to say, "Yes, we were there last week."

She goes on to rave about the great Spielplatz, or playground, for the children near there. I nod in agreement with her as it's the one place where the children aren't too afraid to climb the play structures and use the toys.

Although the boys enjoy the Spielplatz, they much prefer to play inside the Munot itself, a 16th century fortress that towers above the old town. Once inside the cool, dark interior, I let them run around the main room, peering out the tiny windows and hiding from one another behind giant pillars. They could stay in there for hours, but we don't because there's more to see when we climb the tower.

Once we arrive at the top, we are welcomed by views of the Rhine, the old town in the west, and modern residences in the east. Climbing to the top of the Munot also affords a better view of the Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris vines that surround the south side of the fortress. A kiosk offers visitors an opportunity to try the locally produced wine as well as other refreshments.

Since the Munot was originally an artillery fort, you can find several of these cannons on display, which feature the same ram that appears on the cantonal flag.


To round out our visit, we stop by a small, but lovely, rose garden that lies near the north side of the Munot.

Enjoy free entrance (as in gratis) to the Munot year-round.

5 Reasons to Visit Liechtenstein

Why have so many people written off Liechtenstein as over-rated? Is it because this tiny country has become just another destination to check off on a list? It's so close, they say, let's just hop over the border and stamp our passports. Some tourists are completely satisfied with this approach, while it leaves others very disappointed.

I think the problem lies with expectations. Since Liechtenstein is a principality, many tourists have come to expect a certain level of glamor and glitz associated with these kinds of sovereign states - think along the lines of designer boutiques and grand casinos a la Monaco. Liechtenstein is clean, orderly, and attractive, but does not scream wealth the way Monaco does.

You may be wondering why I seem to have such a strong interest in this country. Well, the fact of the matter is Isaiah works in its biggest city, Schaan. Although he's worked there over a year now, we've only visited the Triesenberg region for sledding and snowboarding. Just last weekend, however, we finally played tourists and walked around the city-center of Vaduz, the capital. True, it's not much to speak of, in terms of size and quaintness, but there are a few things to do. Some of the more notable features of Vaduz include the modern structures and the remodeling and construction going on in the area. (New parliament building, foreground photo left, and the government building in the background)

Here are five reasons why I think you should give Liechtenstein a chance:

1. Summer Activities
The tiny nation offers plenty for the whole family to do: theme and nature trails, archery, horseback riding, swimming, and rock climbing. One thing we'd like to do next is take one of the many hiking trails available (marked Wanderweg, just like in Switzerland). During a recent drive we took, we noted that these trails lead you through the mountainside from wooden-house villages to castle ruins.

2. Winter Sports
Since the entire country lies in the Alps, snow is abundant in winter. You'll find great skiing (and sledding) in Malbun.


3. Museums
It seems there is a museum to satisfy every kind of taste. We vistied the Landesmuseum, which gives a great overview of the history of the land we know today as Liechtenstein. You can also find the Calculator Museum, Postage Stamp Museum, FIS Ski Museum, and Kunstmuseum.



4. Historical Sites
A fortress in Balzers, a beautiful Cathedral in Vaduz, Roman excavations and, of course, Schloss Vaduz all beckon visitors. Although you can't actually visit the prince's castle because he lives in it, you can drive right up to it to get a closer look (certain hiking paths will lead you there as well).

Schloss Vaduz - up close

Schloss Vaduz from afar

Rotes Haus, upper Vaduz

5. Bad RagARTz
In conjunction with the Swiss spa town of Bad Ragaz, Vaduz hosts a number of pieces by contemporary sculptors, carefully placed outdoors throughout the city-center for public viewing. The event is triennial and ends November 1.

Milan Spacek (of Switzerland)
"Beziehungen" 2008

If you expect to be able occupy yourself just wandering around for an entire day, Liechtenstein may disappoint. On the contrary, if you plan a few excursions and organize your activities, you'll find that Liechtenstein is a delightful little country.

The Queso Suizo Project: Herdsmen Cheese

Taste Test Thursday - a new cheese adventure

Months ago, when I first started the Queso Suizo Project, a friend asked me to select my favorite cheese thus far. At that point, I felt I didn't have enough cheese in my repertoire to give a satisfactory answer - but maybe that was just an excuse for not having found one that I was crazy about.

The time has come, and I am now ready to share my truly favorite cheese thus far. For the most part, I have been sampling cow's milk cheeses, with a goat cheese thrown in there. I've now deduced that perhaps cow's milk doesn't do it for me because my favorite is this semi-hard sheep's milk cheese.

Labeled "Hirtenkäse," or herdsmen cheese, it has by far won my heart. Earlier this week, Isaiah and I enjoyed it with some green grapes. We exchanged no words, just mmms. Its black rind was a bit off-putting at first, but when I read the label and noticed it was made with sheep's milk, I knew I had to give it a try. It's salty, buttery, and rich. Of all the cheeses I've tried, this one really gives the impression of melting in my mouth.

Bottom line: My very favorite.

To my readers in la Suisse romande, I've been looking for some good cheeses from your region, but can't seem to find them here. The cheese counters in these parts tend to carry mostly local cheeses. I will continue my search...

Badi Time

A taste of Swiss culture for Culture Club Monday.

Whether it's a dip in the Rhine, one of the lakes, or a public swimming pool, the Swiss certainly treasure their Badi time. After all, it lasts just one short season, so it's important to take advantage of the many outdoor bathing opportunities available in Switzerland.

I must admit, when it comes to bathing, I come from a pretty spoiled background that includes spending summers boogie boarding in the Pacific and playing Marco Polo all year long in outdoor swimming pools. Where I come from, going to the beach means going to where the ocean meets the shore. So, it has been quite an adjustment going to the Strandbad (literally "beach bath") and finding a grassy area near some body of freshwater.

Mind you, the grass is always lush and the area well kempt and manicured. The snack bar is well stocked and toilet facilities are clean, which is more than I can say for some San Diego area beaches. Plus, a swim in the Bodensee on a hot summer's day has been one of my most memorable experiences since moving to Switzerland. Besides enjoying the water's refreshing temperature, I appreciate that I didn't arrive home with sand trapped in my swimming suit, lips raw from salt water, or funky smelling hair. Although I appreciate this new-to-me bathing culture, I'm not sure I'll ever grow accustomed to it. I miss the crashing waves and the smell of ocean water in the sticky air.

The other reason why I'm not sure I'll ever get accustomed to Swiss Badi culture is the fact that I have somehow managed to let almost the entire Badi season pass me by with only a few trips to the beach. I've even just now discovered an outdoor public swimming pool not far from my house, but there are only two weeks left in the season. Where has the summer gone?

In the photograph you can see that I took Al (and Little L, not pictured) to the Badi in Langwiesen ZH, which is along the Rhine. I'm not sure how anyone went swimming in the river that day because the water was freezing!

Craving Creme d'or Sicilia

Taste Test Thurday - a little something sweet

After buying a 1.5 quart of Dreyer's Thin Mint ice cream at the commissary for US$3 a couple of weeks ago, I can't help but ponder the supermarket ice cream dilemma I'm faced with since moving to Switzerland.

Isaiah and I consume a lot of supermarket ice cream. I take that back, we used to consume a lot of Ben & Jerry's, Häagen-Dazs, Breyers, Dreyer's, etc. It's not that there's a lack of the good stuff here, far from it. We're just too cheap to pay for the good stuff. The budget brands are either mediocre or just awful, so we stay away because we're not that desperate. As for the top quality ice creams, they're great, but they'll cost you (unless you are lucky enough to live in a border city and you just hop on over to France, Germany, or Austria for your fix - although we do live 10 minutes away from the Lidl in Austria, we're just lazy).

Instead of picking up a new flavor of the frozen stuff every week, ice cream is now a special treat for us, reserved for when certain brands are 20% off at the supermarkets. One particular brand we're crazy about is the Creme d'or Sicilia collection. We've tried the ricotta and marsala, strawberry-basil-lemon, and the orange-almond (not pictured). The texture is dense yet creamy, and the unique flavor combinations are quite complementary and rich.

Although the 20% discount will never compare to the steals you get in the States, the quality of Creme d'or Sicilia is well worth every rappen.

Just to give you an idea of the price differences: 1.5 quarts of Dreyer's in the U.S. will cost you $5 full price. (1.5 quarts is approximately 1.4 L, or 1400 milliliters). Here, 1000 milliliters of Creme d'or Sicilia will cost you $10.50 full price. We're paying more than double the U.S. price for almost 1/3 less ice cream!

Issues with Ice

Living in the States, there were many everyday conveniences that I would take for granted. Take for example the ease with which it is possible to buy a bag of ice. (Or own a fridge that makes ice, for that matter.) You go to the am/pm or the supermarket, you drop 75 cents, and you take your sack of ice and go. Then, when you get home, the bag sometimes actually fits in the freezer!

Here in Switzerland, as I imagine in other parts of the world that serve Coca-Cola sans ice, there's a bit of a problem with ice. If you're not lucky enough to own a separate freezer that you keep in the cellar filled with twenty ice trays, how on earth do you host a cocktail party with one ice tray in that shoebox of a freezer?

I do know, however, that ice machines exist. In fact, I've stared one down at Migros supermarket, absolutely dumbfounded as to how to retrieve ice from the monster machine and too embarrassed to ask a clerk. Even if you do manage to find a place to sell you ice, or work that stupid machine, it's very expensive. I've heard horror stories of people spending Chf 80.- just to supply enough ice for a party.

My friends, I fret no more. One day at the supermarket, Isaiah stumbled across these nifty plastic bags you see photographed above. Some friends of ours found them on accident as well. I would never have thought to look for them, and had no idea something like this existed, so that's why I am spreading the good word (and hoping you won't judge me for thinking this noteworthy.)

Each package comes with twenty plastic bags for making ice. (We found these at Migros.) You take these sacks specially designed with molds, of sorts, to create different sized ice cubes, whole or crushed. You fill the bags with water, tie the top securely, and leave them in the freezer until the water freezes. Once frozen, you bend and stretch the bag until the ice "molds" are torn apart and you've got crushed ice sitting at the bottom of the bag. The best part is they don't take up as much space as an ice tray and can squeeze into the tiniest of spaces in your freezer.

Although it's far from, "Hey, can you pick up a bag of ice for the drink cooler on your way to the BBQ." It'll have to do.

Resource List for Deals in Switzerland

I've had a few readers comment that one of the sections on my blog that they really enjoy reading is "On a Budget." I have also had readers send some great tips and links my way, so I thought I'd compile a list of resources to help those living in Switzerland or coming for a visit to save some francs! The links below, with a few exceptions, are specifically for food and goods. If you know of any other links for service, travel, or dining out deals, please send them my way and I'll add them here. Of course, more links on food and goods are also always appreciated!

Price Comparison Sites:

Comparis.ch - Popular website for information regarding various insurance companies and banks. Available in English.

Aktionis.ch - Reader NoToM introduced me to this website that compiles all of the current specials at Coop, Migros, Denner, Spar, Volg, and Lidl. A visit here on Tuesdays is a great way to plan your shopping for the rest of the week. (Though, for new specials from Denner you'll want to check the site on Wednesday, and for Lidl you'll want to check on Thursday.)

Toppreise.ch - Reader M'dame Jo suggests this site for price comparisons on electronic goods.


Supermarket Promotions:

Coop - The one thing Aktionis.ch doesn't share is which items have special bonus point offers, so if you're into accumulating Coop Superpunkte, then check out the first link. If you're new to CH and don't know about Superpunkte, click here. Also, you can find out about the current sticker promotion or view the "Preismonitor" status, which provides a monthly update, and currently Coop brand items are slightly cheaper than Migros brand items, but name brand items are slightly cheaper at Migros.

Migros - Here you can view a virtual copy of the Migros Magazine, but only the pages that pertain to special offers, including bonus Cumulus points. If you don't know what those are, click here.


Discount and Liquidation Shops:

Otto's - This is a great place to find inexpensive souvenirs. I've seen SIGG water bottles selling for less than 1/3 of the retail price! It's worth having a look. Also, designer fragrances are near 1/2 the price they are at, say, Manor. With this link you can view a virtual copy of the weekly promotions.

Radikal - Otto's little sister offers inexpensive toys, deep discounts on name brand toiletries, unique food items, with some items cheaper than the chain supermarkets (i.e. dried lentils, rice, etc). A virtual copy of current specials is available online.

Aldi - A variety of specials on food and household goods. New offers every few days.


Online Shops:

eboutic.ch - Another goodie from M'dame Jo, this site requires you to login to view the items on offer, but registration is quite simple and straightfoward. Current specials include deals on Crocs, CK watches, and Trudeau housewares.

Otto's Webshop - Here you can purchase a variety of discounted items, but not necessarily what you will find in Otto's walk-in shops.

Ricardo - This site offers e-bay style shopping. You can arrange to pick up items or have them posted.


Factory Outlet Shops:

Fox Town - This is actually an outlet shopping center in canton Ticino with 160 shops.

Triumph - The international lingerie brand has three factory outlet shops throughout Switzerland. (Two free standing in Bad Zurzach and Heerbrugg/Widnau and one at the Aubonne Outlet Center, see below.)

Rohner Socks - Find discounts on hiking socks and other hosiery at this outlet shop in Balgach (canton St. Gallen).

Wolford AG - Just over the border in Bregenz, Austria, you'll find this luxury brand's headquarters, factory, and outlet shop. If you are in Austria as a tourist and you spend at least €75.00, you can purchase your items tax-free.

More great links from M'dame Jo are for these two outlet centers in French-speaking CH:
Villeneuve - near Montreux
Aubonne - near Lausanne


Sightseeing and Travel within CH:

M-CUMULUS - Visit this page to see the deals you can get by just showing your Migros Cumulus Card. Current partners Rigi Bahnen AG, Pilatus-Bahnen, Monte-Generoso-Bahn, and Bergbahnen Toggenburg are offering 20% off their prices when you show your card. The offer is good until October 25.

Swiss Budget Hotels - I found this link on the blog One Big Yodel (check out the author's suggestions for saving money in Switzerland). Find an online booking tool, package deals, and (if you're flexible about where you would like to stay) a special last minute fixed price of Chf 49.50 per person/night at various hotels in CH.

Enjoy!

Please be sure to let me know if a link no longer works.

Trier and Velveeta: The oldest city in Germany and some American shopping

A Roman amphitheater, Imperial baths, and great shopping - no, I am not describing a recent trip to Italy. Instead, I am talking about Trier, located in western Germany in the Rhineland-Palatinate state, close to Luxembourg.

"I think I once heard about that city on the History Channel," Isaiah remarked.

That's because Trier is full of history, especially as Germany's oldest city. I, on the other hand, had never heard of Trier and was pleasantly surprised at all there is to see in this remarkable place (photo left - the Hauptmarkt). Last weekend when Isaiah and I went to visit his sister at the Air Base in Spangdahlem, Germany, she lead us to this city for a little day trip.

Founded in the first century BC, Trier's numerous Roman ruins scattered throughout the city mark its past as part of the Roman Empire. The photo below offers a glimpse of the Imperial baths (Kaiserthermen). Construction of the baths began over 1700 years ago, but was never actually completed.

It is also possible to visit the Amphitheater, the Porta Nigra (below), as well as the Forum Baths .

Here you can see the contrast between the Basilica of Constantine on the left, which dates back to the fourth century AD, and a rococo palace on the right, built in the seventeenth century AD.


For the tourist who wants to take it all in, Trier offers a marked path known as the "Tourist Route," which leads visitors on a self-guided tour of all the major monuments and sights. In addition to visiting Roman ruins, visitors should take in a splendid walk down Neustrasse, leading you to some unique shops, such as Terra Viva that sells these lovely bird feeders.


After our visit to Trier, we headed back to the Air Base where we stopped into an American convenience store. I was in heaven flipping through all the America magazines, with American prices and 10% off the cover price to boot! We also went to the commissary and picked up some T-bone steaks, bacon for breakfast the next day, and my favorite food in a box: Velveeta shells and cheese. I don't care what anyone says - I love that stuff! What a joy it was to walk up and down the aisles of an American supermarket out in the middle of nowhere Germany.

(Here Isaiah holds my Michael Jackson commemorative edition of Time magazine!)

The QSP: Bio Bündner and a Swiss cheese intensity index

Taste Test Thursday: More Swiss cheese!

For our cheese purchase this week we returned to an old favorite, only this time I thought we should try a different variety.

The last Bündner Bergkäse we tried was from Migros and came already packaged. Although it was quite intense (kräftig) and delicious, I am always on the hunt for more, and Coop sells a Pro Montagna variety that I have been meaning to buy for months.

This lovely hard cheese, from the Graubünden region, is of the mittelreif instensity, bio (organic), and its sales support local farmers and their families. It's delicately strong flavored, mild odored, and perfect for my cheese platter. I think the next time I pick up a Bündner cheese I'll head to Coop for this exact type.

Bottom line: Everything I expect from a mountain cheese, plus some extra perks.


One last thing - I thought I'd jot down a list of some of the labels I've come across that "measure" the intensity or maturity of cheese:

kräftig - strong
surchoix - top choice
mittelreif - medium maturity
rezent - tart or sour

Do you know any other labels I should add?

Dienstag Deals: Reduced price goods at Coop, but it'll cost you

From what I have gathered, two or three times a year Coop supermarket sponsors a special promotion in which customers collect thirty stickers (one for every CHF 10 spent), affix them to a designated card (Sammelkarte), and then redeem the card for deep discounts on a variety of selected goods.

The previous promotional items included creative bakeware by Pyrex. Although I did in fact collect all thirty stickers, sadly I failed to make my way back to Coop in time to exchange the completed Sammelkarte for a bread pan - rats!

This time around, I was much more determined. The most recent promotion offered glassware by the German label Rosenthal. I had my eye on a beautiful Weindekanter. At the retail price of CHF 76, there is no way I'd pay full price. With a complete Sammelkarte, however, the decanter cost me just CHF 21.90. Yes, that's right, I saved 54.10 and it only cost me CHF 300 in groceries!

Sarcasm aside, I never bought anything at Coop that we didn't need, and it took me the entire promotional period (since late March) to collect thirty stickers, since we mostly shop at Migros. Nonetheless, I consider the Coop promotions to be a great "Dienstag Deal" because of the huge discounts you get on high quality goods in exchange for doing your everyday shopping at the supermarket. Now I'm eagerly awaiting the next promotion!

CarHavana: Art that allures and brings awareness

For most Americans, travel to Cuba, at least directly from the States, has been out of the question for decades. Visiting this "forbidden" land isn't impossible, though, and after viewing American photographer Melani Lust's impressions of Havana, I hear the country calling me to find a way to get there.

These images spark in me a curiosity that won't be satisfied until I make my way to the island. What is now a dream of munching on fried plantains, chatting with locals, and dancing to son cubano, will someday be my reality. If you're like me, during the interim you find other ways to satisfy your cravings, such as my continuing efforts to make a decent mojito in my Swiss kitchen. As for you, mark your calendars for March 2010 when a little bit of La Havana will grace Amelia Island (near Jacksonville, Florida) with her presence.

CarHavana, a joint exhibition between fellow artists Melani Lust and Brayan Alonso Collazo, of Cuba, features photographs of American cars from the 1950s - classics frozen in time, like much of the country. After a fruitful run from May 8 - June 9, 2009 at the Deposito de Automovíles in Old Havana, the exhibition will reemerge at Amelia Island Concours d'Elegance, an international car show, March 12-14, 2010.

This is no ordinary exhibition and its presence in Florida is significant and deliberate. According to Melani, "The exhibitors explained that CarHavana will make the Concours d'Elegance cutting edge and signals a new direction of diplomacy and the eroding barriers between Cuba and the U.S. because the show is a joint exhibit from citizens of the two countries."

What may seem to be an exhibit that merely documents the pristine condition of Havana's "Oldtimers," as old-fashioned cars are called in German, is actually so much more. The artists have created an opportunity to dialogue about the reality of the U.S.-Cuba embargo and its impact on the Cuban people. As CarHavana continues to tour the country, possibly to New York and Puerto Rico next, so too may the dialogue continue.

As for Melani's vision for CarHavana, she offers, "I hope that the show will mark a beginning of a joint effort among artists to do whatever they can to work together and exchange ideas, that this type of cooperation evolves to the branches of government is my greatest hope."

All images are by Melani Lust Photography and are featured on this blog with special permission from the artist.

For your Rolodex:
Melani Lust Photography
21 Hickory Drive
Westport, CT 06880
U.S.A

(203) 247-6983
ml@melanilustphotography.com

www.melanilustphotography.com

This post has been a taste of culture for Culture Club Monday.

The QSP: Heidi Blütenkäse

For Taste Test Thursday, I've written another entry for the Queso Suizo Project. Enjoy!

I am a sucker for edible flowers. When my mom gave me an ice cream maker for Christmas one year, the first thing I made was lavender gelato. I was the only one in my house who ate it. So when I saw mountain flowers pressed into Heidi's newest cheese product, I had to try it. Surprisingly, everyone else around wanted to try it too (Kerry and Fiona were in town at the time).

I'm happy to report that this cheese is quite frankly delicious. Unfortunately, I believe this has nothing to do with the flowers. In fact, the flowers are pretty superficial. I was hoping for a hint of floral goodness, and I got nothing, which was completely disappointing. Although the mountain flowers make for an attractive cheese presentation, they are just for show.

Because I can find other cheeses that are equally tasty, I probably won't be buying this one again, unless its on Aktion.

Bottom line: Don't be fooled by the flowers.

Für mich und dich: Simple recipes and easy meals for me and you

You could say that one of my hobbies since moving to Switzerland is sitting with my German-English dictionary in hand attempting to decipher the variety of texts that come my way. One type of text in particular is the recipe cards I have been collecting from Coop supermarket since February of this year. Found near the entrance of almost every shop (and feel FREE to take as many as you like), the recipes range from desserts to apéros to main dishes from a variety of cuisines. Most recently, I tried the Käsewähe recipe pictured here, which serves as a tasty light evening meal - even leftovers work well for a hearty breakfast.

What I love about these recipes is that they are usually very easy to follow (despite being written in a language other than my mother tongue) with simple procedures. Some may take more time than others, but of those I have tried, none have been too complicated to carry out. The inside of each card features preparations on the left and a shopping list on the right, including color photographs and labels of some of the ingredients - perfect for this German-language learner. I know many of my veggies now, for sure!

Although most of the shopping lists suggest Coop brand products or items found only at Coop, I almost never follow this part very strictly. Really, I find no difference between Coop's Betty Bossi Kuchenteig (paste) and the same product sold at Migros. Coop, never one to miss an opportunity to make an etxra buck, also sells special books to help you organize your Coop recipes. I'll just continue to store mine in envelopes, thank you.

I hope you appreciate a bit of randomness on Wednesdays: Mittwoch Miscellaneous.

The Works: Swiss National Day in Au

I'm not sure if it was guilt for not doing anything on the 4th of July or the desire to not be totally lame on the 1st of August that prompted us to celebrate the Swiss National Holiday, but we did and did it our way.

First, we decided we wanted to have a little barbecue of burgers - with all the fixings - St. Galler sausages and beer. Then we figured we should invite some friends. Luckily, we know a fellow American couple who live nearby and also didn't want to be lame on Saturday, so we had them and their two kiddies over along with another American couple who had just returned from holidays in the States the night before. Hey, if we're all stuck in Rheintal, might as well be in good company! (Just kidding - it's not terrible out here at all, if you don't mind feeling like you're out in the middle of nowhere.)

Next, we needed a grill. Meet Big Red. Isn't she a beauty? We found her at Do-It Migros for reduced price! Isaiah was very pleased at how well she cooked up our meats. It looks like we may do some more grilling around here!

Finally, for entertainment, at about 9 pm we took a seat on our couch, opened all the windows in our flat, and enjoyed the fireworks going off all around us. What a show! Beautiful white sparkling ones burst from the Protestant church parking lot, bright green ones from one of the hilltop restaurants (plus a rather alarmingly large bonfire), and neighbors set off their sparklers right below us. We scurried from window to window to see which ones were coming from where. It was quite a noisy spectacle that lasted about an hour or so. The best part was watching our neighbors pick up and properly dispose of all the mess they had made with their fireworks.

This post has been a taste of culture for Culture Club Monday.