Fun on a Budget: Rheintal and Locarno Regions of Switzerland

Our pals Fiona and Kerry stopped by to visit with us a couple of weeks ago. They were on their way back to the States after backpacking through Asia for five months. Before coming to Switzerland, they had been traveling in India for a month, quite literally partaking in delicious feasts for a whopping fifty cents. As I rode the train to meet up with them in Zürich, I tried rehearsing what I might say to break the news to them that they would be in for a bit of sticker shock.

"So, about that whole living off of $8 a day, not gonna happen here."

Luckily, they had no need to worry about us showing them the fancy restaurants in the area or taking them to ride expensive cable cars. Since none of us had neither disposable cash nor a train pass, we had to find fun in other ways. Here I will highlight how we entertained ourselves for six days: on foot, by bus, and by car.

Wander around Zürich on foot.

No map, no set destinations. I'm not much of a tour guide, since I don't live in or near Zürich, but I did manage to lead our pals on a stroll down Bahnhofstrasse, for a dip in the lake (just our feet along the Utoquai), and for a glimpse of the Marc Chagall stained glass windows at Fraumünster.

Do what locals do.

For the time being, I'm a "local." So, I did what I normally do: ride the Ostwind bus. Two days in a row, we bought day passes that allowed us to freely ride between two zones in the Ostwind system. One day we visited the Salvation Army, newly relocated to Altstätten, wandered around the old town, had a coffee and cake break, and did some shopping at Coop in Heerbrugg. The next day we went to the beach (Strandbad Chf 4/person) in Staad (packed lunch - leftovers from dinner) and shopping at Rheinpark.

Take advantage of locally grown produce by making dinner at home every night.

Three nights in a row, we took turns making dinner. The girls had the opportunity to support local producers by cooking with products featuring the Aus der Region/Für die Region label. Our menus included ricotta stuffed roasted tomatoes, pasta primavera, and veggie/tofu curry (photo below). We even got to use the chopsticks that Fiona brought us as souvenirs from her trip!

Hit the road.

There is only so much to do in and around our area, so by the weekend, it was time to go on a little road trip. We indulged our friends a bit and stopped in Liechtenstein so they could check it off their list. Below - genuine Liechtensteiner cows.

Here we are on our way to the Locarno region in canton Ticino. When the weather is looking a bit glum in the Rheintal region, it's usually sunny and warm just south on the other side of the Alps. It's true - I promise, once you pass through all the snow...

Heavy rain in Au on Friday meant snow in San Bernardino, which made for a lovely scenic drive through the Alps. Yes, we took the long way.

Go camping.

I am a huge proponent of the camping experience. I wasn't always this way, but our past few experiences have been very positive and I am looking forward to our next camping trip.

We stayed at Campeggio Zandone, situated along the Melezza River in Losone. Compared to Campofelice in Tenero (click here for a post related to our stay there) and nearby Campeggio Lido Mappo (our first choice over Campofelice because they offer free ferry service to Locarno), Zandone is not exactly the five-star camping experience. It is much more rugged and free-spirited with lots of families, people drinking (and offering) beer, and open plots (that is, no assigned spaces and a casual registration process). But when you don't plan ahead, make no reservations, and get turned away from your first choice campsites directly on the Lake, you take what you can get. I'm not complaining, though, because we had a great time. We enjoyed leftover curry for dinner, heated on Isaiah's camping stove.

Had we not set up camp at Zandone, we never would have taken the night hike that led us to explore the medieval mountain village of Intragna.

Relax at a public beach.

With most beaches along the Bodensee charging a few francs just to lie on the grass, we were happy to discover a satisfactory public beach in Ascona called Grande Lido Ascona. If you just want to go for a dip in the lake and sunbathe on the beach, then this is the place to go and it's absolutely gratis. The only extra costs are for food and refreshments, a changing room, and the water slide.

Take in scenic views.

On our way to drop me off at language camp (as a teacher not a student!), Fiona and Kerry kept thanking me for getting the job in Arosa because it allowed them to see this beautiful scenery on the winding road from Chur.

All photos above are courtesy of Fiona O'Donnell.

Splurge, just once.

As it turns out, the most expensive thing we did with our friends was eat at a Mexican restaurant on Niederdorfstrasse in Zürich. (Isaiah drove in to pick us up, dine with us, and take us back to Au.) At a shocking CHF 30 per plate (average), we left with satisfied bellies, but wondered whether or not to consider the food we ate authentic Mexican cuisine.

Thanks for spicing up our lives for a week, ladies!

She works hard for the money

I got the call on Saturday morning that a language camp in Arosa, Graubünden, was in desperate need of an English teacher available to start immediately and take over a class of intermediate students. The gig would last only one week, with free room and board, as many students would be leaving by the week's end and I would no longer be needed. Never one to turn down a legitimate work opportunity, I quickly discussed the pros and cons with my husband.

Pros: Our visitors had been with us at that point since Tuesday and would be leaving Monday morning to head to Geneva, so I wouldn't really be abandoning them. Plus, I didn't need to arrive at the camp until later Sunday evening, which would still allow us to take our guests for a quick overnight stay in the Locarno area. Plus, the camp's host institution is a boarding school in St. Gallen for which I'd like to be a full-time teacher. Taking this job would really be a foot in the door!

Cons: I'd have to be away from Isaiah for the entire week. Also, the work hours are long: 7:30 am until 10 pm.

Despite the cons, I returned the Director's call and accepted the position, then we hopped into the car for our drive down to Locarno (more on that on "Vacation Viernes").

While laying out on the beach Sunday afternoon, I got a call from the camp's director of studies, "Have you got a pair of proper trousers with you? It snowed yesterday and it may get chilly again during the week."

"Um, no, just a pair of blue jeans."

"Oh, well, I'm sure that will do since you are arriving on such short notice."

Yeah, it hadn't occurred to me that there might be some sort of dress code at camp. I had thrown just a few blouses and a sun dress into a duffel bag hoping that would do for the week. Just a few hours after that call, we were on the road heading north to drop me off at the camp. There would be no time to stop at home first to pack a pair of slacks. I already had a feeling that I was in for a very long week.

Long week it was. So long that I have been recovering from it since I returned this past Saturday evening, mostly because I woke up that morning with a tickle in my throat, which has now manifested itself as a full-fledged summer cold. To top it off, it turns out that extreme exhaustion seriously impairs my ability to walk down a flight of steps, so I somehow managed to fall down the staircase in my apartment building and sprain my ankle, pretty badly. It's black and blue and I'm wearing an ankle brace.

In the long run, was it all worth the mere CHF 600 cash that I earned? It's too soon to tell. But I will tell you this, I'm glad to have had such a unique experience working with some bright students and friendly colleagues in one of Switzerland's most beautiful settings. In wintertime, Arosa (30 km/45 min. outside of Chur) is a hot spot ski resort town, comparable to St. Moritz. During the summer, the town features hiking, sun bathing, and other leisure activities amidst rocky mountains and pine forests at 1800 meters above sea level.

Highlights from the week:

• International flair of the camp included students and staff from Portugal, France, Spain, Italy, Switzerland, Germany, the UK, Monaco, Canada, Mexico, Colombia, Russia, Kazakhstan, and Ukraine.
• An afternoon of shopping in Chur, kid-free, during which I purchased a CHF 99 skirt from United Colours of Benetton for only CHF 25. I love the July sales! I then proceeded to wear said skirt every day for the rest of camp so I wouldn't appear to be a slob.
  
• We had two BBQs that week, during which I stuffed my face with salads, sausages, and Paprika chips.
• Lunch and Dinner were served to us in the hotel's dining hall in three courses: salad, main dish, and dessert. No dish-washing duty at this camp.
  
• Since 90% of my students were Russian, I picked up how to say yes ("da"), no ("niet"), and what ("shto").
• My 9-year-old little buddy from Mexico City would often tag along with me during free time and speak in lists. "Amanda, can you answer three questions for me? Number one..." "Amanda, I have three reasons why you should stay at camp. First, you're the only one of the teachers who speaks good Spanish, next ...."
• I played UNO in German with a Russian-born German-language teacher, a Spanish kid, and my little Mexican buddy.
• I played beach volleyball at the Strandbad (small lake, pictured above, with grass area and sandy beach).
• I went small bore target shooting and I wasn't half bad for a first-timer.
• Many students spoke 3-4 languages and would alternate between them quite freely.
• Disco-night. Children dancing to hip-hop is seriously entertaining.
  

Views from Hotel Eden, my home for the week

A birthday garden party in the former GDR

On the eve of their nation's celebration of independence, two Americans journey to former German Democratic Republic territory for a friend's birthday garden party.

The seven-hour drive to Leipzig, in the east German state of Saxony, consists of German language lessons involving insults that rhyme with chicken sucker. The birthday boy is pleased with the progress of his two pupils who can also hurl commands such as verpiss dich!

A midnight arrival means the night is still young on Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse, insists the birthday boy. First stop is beer at a bar with outdoor seating and Michael Jackson hits playing inside. Several university students pass by clad in 80s attire, apparently on their way to 80s-themed house parties. Final stop of the evening is Frau Pulver, where bar owner Elisa claims it's closing time. The birthday boy works his magic and somehow convinces Elisa to allow his Liechtensteiner pal a chance at the piano. Soon, locals are drawn into the tiny space by his performance. After a short beverage break (photo left), dawn draws nigh as the Liechtensteiner leads everyone in a rendition of "We Are the World."

A full day of birthday events has the crew up at ten o'clock. Most of the birthday boy's guests are preparing for water skiing and wakeboarding (oh, and not the kind in which you are tugged by a boat) at Lake Kulkwitzer. One of the Americans is a good sport and joins in on the adventure, while the other American claims that lifts of all kinds frighten her and after only just having overcome her fear of snow ski lifts isn't quite ready to be tugged around a lake by a water ski lift. She prefers, instead, to take photographs of everyone else being much braver than she will ever be.


Later, the birthday boy and his guests head to his parents house in Reuden, more than an hour's drive outside of Leipzig, overlooking a cornfield. The rest of the day is filled with two separate feasts. The first feast focuses on sweets including various birthday cakes (definitely not the American type), cookies, pies, tarts, and coffee. To recover from the previous evening's and morning's events, several guests take naps in the large garden.

Baileys cheese cake topped with white chocolate shavings and red currants

The final feast features Thüringer sausages, communally prepared fresh salads, corn-on-the-cob, garlic bread, and grilled zucchini and eggplant. After a long meal, sparkling wine, beers, and music by the campfire, everyone retires to their sleeping bags and tents set up under the shade of two large cherry trees.


I couldn't imagine a better way to celebrate a birthday, or the 4th of July for that matter: feasting, napping, and laughing with friends.

The QS Project: Savogniner Halbfett

Taste Test Thursday - A cheese (mis)adventure

I should have known better. Fat is a good thing when it comes to flavor, though not so much when it comes to the waistline. So, what was I thinking when I decided to try a "low-fat" variety of cheese? Perhaps I was thinking that all this cheese project stuff is going to catch up with me soon and I better be a bit more cautious with my cheese choices.

You'd think I would have learned my lesson after a very unpleasant experience with low-fat cheddar back in California and vowing never again to buy low-fat cheese. What it came down to was this reasoning, "Hey, if anyone can pull off low-fat cheese maybe it's the Swiss."

The cheese didn't let me down right away, though. Yes, the smell was offensive, but in the good stinky-cheese way (despite the light aroma note on the label: Aromatisch leicht). I figured that if it smelled like other yummy mountain cheeses then maybe it would taste yummy too! The real test, of course, was the taste test. My problem before with the low-fat cheddar was that it lacked flavor. It was essentially flavorless. This time, though, the "half-fat" Savogniner, which hails from the Graubünden region, was indeed packed with flavor - a terrible one.

However, being one not to waste food, I got rid of it by melting it in a Käsewähe, overshadowed by a more favorable Gruyère.

Bottom line: It will be Vollfettkäse from now on or nothing.

A Smooth Transition: The acquisition of a Swiss driver's license

I am not the first to write about this topic, but I thought I'd share with readers the steps Isaiah and I took to exchange our foreign (U.S.) driver's licenses for Swiss ones. It was a surprisingly smooth transition, thanks to all of the helpful information on Swisstory Blog as well as Google translate.

Please note that because we happen to be U.S. citizens, the process is a simple exchange (of sorts), and we are exempt from any written or behind-the-wheel examinations (just so long as the exchange happens within one year of arriving in Switzerland). This is also true for the following countries: EU/EFTA countries, Australia, Israel, Japan, Canada, Korea (Republic), Croatia, Morocco, Monaco, New Zealand, San Marino, Singapore, and Tunisia.

For all other countries, I am afraid the process is much more of a hassle.

Here is a quick checklist of what we EACH needed to complete and bring with us to the Department of Motor Vehicles (Strassenverkehrsamt):

• Application form (Gesuchsformular)
• Original foreign driver's license (Ausländischer Führerausweis)
• Alien card, such as a B-permit (Ausländerausweis)
• One recent passport photo in color (35 x 45 mm)
• Eye Test (Sehtest)
• Optional - Record of Driver's License History
  

Just as Jessica of Swisstory points out, the first thing you need is an application form. Because I don't read German or live in Zurich, I had to do a little more investigating to find the appropriate form for my canton.

If you live in canton Zurich, you can visit this page and click on the form that states "Gesuch um Umtausch eines ausländischen Führerausweises."

If you live in canton St. Gallen, like us, visit this page, scroll down to the section titled "Verkehrszulassung Führer," and download the form "Gesuch um Umtausch eines ausländischen Führerausweises."

As you can see, for both cantons the forms have the same title. Also, I noticed the forms look almost exactly the same. For all other cantons, visit this page to find your DMV and click around until you find the following terms:

"Umschreibung ausländischer Führerausweise" - I have no exact translation for this, but it's the section on the DMV site that leads you to information about the exchange
"Forumulare" = forms
"Gesuch" = application
"Umtausch" = exchange or replacement
"ausl./ausländisch-" = foreign
"Führerausweis" = driver's license

For our passport photos, we just sat in one of those Pronto Phot booths at a nearby shopping center. (Of course, I used up all three of my attempts before I chose a "pose" I wanted to print, and Isaiah just picked the first one.) The default choice is color, but make sure you don't choose black and white because the DMV does require a color photo.

As for the eye test, we went to the nearby Visilab, and for both tests we paid a total of CHF 18 - not bad! Be sure to bring with you the application form you downloaded and printed because the eye examiner will make notes directly on that form and complete the transaction with an official stamp.

Next, because we renewed our California driver's licenses only within the last two years, and I heard from at least two sources that you must prove you have been a licensed driver for at least three years, Isaiah and I made sure to pick up copies of our driver's license history from the California DMV. If you can get these before your move to CH, the better.

Finally, we attempted to turn in all our documents for the exchange to our Gemeinde, but the clerk instructed us to go in person to the DMV in St. Gallen. (You can also send the forms by post, but I feel more comfortable doing these things in person.) At the DMV information desk, a clerk collected our applications and photos, made copies of our B-permits, kept our original driver's licenses*, and told us to go home and wait. Wait we did, and just two weeks later we received our new AND old licenses in the mail. I was quite worried the administration would be dissatisfied that we didn't provide German translations of our English documents (especially the copies of our driver's license history), but apparently there were no problems with that!

*I highly recommended you avoid driving outside of Switzerland while you wait for your new Swiss license to arrive. Isaiah and I learned the hard way. Just one week after turning in our applications and California licenses, we drove to Munich to visit friends for the weekend. As we were on our way back to Switzerland on Sunday evening, we were pulled over by the German authorities, complete with blue flashing sirens! Five police officers proceeded to step out of a van and interrogate us. Of course, they wanted to see our driver's licenses! After some explaining (and pleading), they let us go! Phew! Although we didn't receive a fine for driving without a license, I would not recommend such an experience to my worst enemy...

On life as a foreigner for Mittwoch Miscellaneous.

Ice Cream "Pause" in Schaffhausen

As I approach my final days with the little Swiss children, Al and Little L, with whom I have spent most of my time during the last nine months, I recall some of my fondest memories with them. Among them, my adventures with language learning and ice cream consumption bring the biggest smile to my face.

Despite the many words and phrases they've learned from me ("let's go," "getch you," "stand up," mess, cheese, outside, etc.), ice cream will always be "glacé." Where did I take them to get the best glacé in Schaffhausen? El Bertin Gelateria

Over the months, I have only posted a limited number of photos of the kids for privacy reasons, but I did ask their mother if I could share the following snapshots I took after our visit to El Bertin. They are just too cute not to share! Both boys asked for the "Schoggi" flavor, which they ended up sharing with me - desperate to stop the melting ice cream from dripping onto their hands, arms, and clothing.

I tried the Black Chocolate with Chili, which was more like delicious black chocolate with a tingling sensation. I've also tried zimt (cinnamon), yogurt, and coconut - all yummy!

For your Rolodex:

El Bertin Glacé * Unterstadt 13 * 8200 Schaffhausen, Switzerland * 41-52-625 60 03

Random ice cream recommendation and cute kid photos brought to you as part of Mittwoch Miscellaneous.

Shopping Tip: Have a plan and save money

Every Monday afternoon I eagerly check the mailbox for my favorite publication: The Migros Magazine. Although I can't read the articles, except for a few words here and there, I do enjoy flipping through the pages to plan my next shopping trip. The one word I can read, know very well, and am on the lookout for is "Aktion," which designates items on special. I'm also looking out for products that will earn me bonus points that will count toward my next set of coupons.

There's no doubt about it, buying goods in Switzerland can be very expensive, but in my overall experience I have found that our family spends no more than what we used to spend in the States on groceries. The key to saving money is planning.

I do realize that planning shopping trips can be difficult for busy families, especially those in which both partners work, but with a little extra effort and time the savings will be well worth the trouble.

I start out my week by discovering what's on special at Migros and Coop supermarkets and then plan my meals based on what's on sale there. I think this is the most important step I take. Of course, not everything I will need to prepare a meal will be on sale, but it is always my goal to use as many sale items as possible when cooking meals for Isaiah and me. Also, I'll pick up a few things early on in the week, but if at all possible I try to save the bulk of my Migros shopping for Donnerstag, or Thursday, when it is possible to earn double points on your entire purchase. Whatever produce and fresh foods are on special at Migros and Coop are the goods I tend to get in addition to our basics.

Next, I am on the lookout for items that will earn me extra "club" points (I look through the Migros Magazine or online at coop.ch). Migros offers bonus points on new items, like their new cocoa drink mix, which sells for CHF 5.80, and I earned 111 extra points when I purchased it. (Usually you earn just one point per dollar you spend.) Other than new items, Migros offers bonus points on certain brands, such as this week's special on select Max Havelaar Fair Trade products. Coop offers 20X super points on select items as well.

Finally, I look through the Aldi, Otto's, and Denner advertisements in search of deals on non-perishables. (I am definitely among the few people in Switzerland who don't consider these "junk mail.") I'll then add items to my shopping list if I need them immediately or will need them in the near future.

My household shopping certainly takes me to 3-5 different shops per week, but to me it's the thrill of the hunt for deals that keeps me going. Besides, my shopping habits here are not so different from the variety of shops I frequented back in California: Target for toiletries, Vons for double coupons, Henry's for inexpensive produce and bulk spices, etc.

Dienstag Deals of the Week:

• This week's Migros Magazine offers cut-out coupons for deals at the Migros Restaurant. Although it is probably the most affordable place to eat out here (except for Döner Kebaps), these coupons make it even more economical. My favorite is the coupon for CHF 2.40 off of the Frühstücks-Hit. I have two sets of coupons so that both Isaiah and I can enjoy a discounted breakfast (one from the magazine that comes in the mail and the other from an extra one I pick up at the store).
• Despite my diligent planning, somehow I failed to discover that chocolate is on special at Migros. Today while shopping, I needed a chocolate fix so I grabbed two bars (below). On my way out of the store as I examined my sales receipt, I noticed that I got CHF 0.30 off of each bar. It might be a good week to stock up on Bärner Schoggi and the (Fair Trade) Bio Cremant, which are the only Migros chocolates I really care for.